Simple French Cooking

View Original

Curried Mussels Fritters with Potato Puree

Mussel Fritters served on a bed of Potato Puree with a Curry Sauce is a delightful and innovative recipe that captures the essence of Brittany's regional flavors. This dish, a personal reinterpretation of a Brittany classic, brings the region's maritime freshness to the forefront. The inclusion of curry pays homage to Brittany's historical connection with the spice trade, particularly in the serene town of Port-Louis. Renowned for its role in the Compagnie des Indes Orientales, established by Colbert in 1664, Port-Louis was a pivotal point in the spice, tea, fabric, silk, and porcelain trade. This rich history is subtly woven into the recipe, adding an unexpected yet harmonious spice element that enhances the succulent mussels and creamy potato puree.


Mussel Fritters, photo by Francois

A simpler version of the recipe is featured in "The Dishes of France," an excellent cookbook that explores the diversity of French cuisine. The combination of succulent mussels, smooth potato, and the exotic warmth of curry creates a symphony of taste that is both comforting and elegantly sophisticated. This dish, merging the rustic charm of Brittany with the exotic allure of the East, is a testament to both history and gastronomic innovation.

Curried Mussel Fritters with Potato Puree

This dish is composed of 3 elements: Moules Marinières (Mussels Sailor Style); potato puree, and a curry sauce.

PREP: 10 minutes | COOK: 45 minutes | MAKES: 4 servings

Moules Marinières

  • 2 pounds of live mussels

  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

  • 2 shallots, diced

  • 2 cloves garlic, mashed

  • 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

  • 1 cup white wine

  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Potato Puree

  • 2 pounds of gold potatoes, peels and cut thickly

  • 1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted butter

  • 1/2 cup to 1 cup whole milk

  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Finishing the Dish

  • 1 cup tempura batter, follow the manufacturer’s instructions

  • 2 quarts of vegetable oil

  • 1/8 cup heavy cream

  • 1 teaspoon curry powder

Directions

  1. For the Moules Marinières, It is important to only clean the mussels within an hour of cooking them. Tap any open mussels on the counter to see if they are still alive; discard any that do not immediately close. Soak the mussels in cold water with a sprinkle of salt for 1 hour. Scrub the mussels with a small brush or a paring knife to remove anything that clings to the shell. Pull off the beard that sticks out from between the shells (this is how the mussel clings to rocks and various things in the ocean).

  2. In a Dutch oven over medium-high heat, melt the butter until foamy but not browned. Add the shallots, garlic, and thyme and cook for 2 minutes, or until soft and translucent. Add the white wine and bring to a rapid boil.

  3. Add the mussels, cover, and cook until they open, about 3 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, remove the cooked mussels to a large bowl. Discard any with shells that won’t open. Remove all the mussels from their shells and pat dry. Strain the broth into a clean saucepot.

  4. For the potato puree, Place the potatoes in a large saucepan and cover with salted water. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium-high, and cook until very soft, about 25 minutes. When the potatoes are cooked, drain and place in a bowl. Mash the potatoes with a potato masher, food mill, or ricer. Mix in the butter and milk and season with salt and pepper to taste. You want the consistency to be a little runnier than normal mashed potatoes.

  5. To finish the dish, put the dried-off mussels into the tempura batter and reserve. In a large, heavy saucepan, Dutch oven, or deep fryer, heat the oil to 350°F.

  6. While the oil is heating, bring the sauce to a boil, add the cream and curry then let reduce by 50%. The sauce should be thick. Check seasoning and adjust to your tastes.

  7. When the oil is ready, carefully drop the mussels in one by one. They will splatter a bit. Cook the mussels until golden brown and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. As you remove them from the oil, carefully shake them to drain off excess oil. Then, transfer to a plate lined with paper towels, toss generously with salt, and serve.

  8. Put a large spoonful of potato puree on each plate, top with mussels, then drizzle curry sauce around.

Notes: I love serving this with friend parsley. To make fried parsley, heat your oil to 325 degrees. Drop parsley in and cook for a minute. Drain on paper towels and sprinkle with salt.