Nun’s Farts and other Practical Uses for Choux Paste

This might start as a bad joke, but I promise it isn’t. I was making ‘Nun’s Farts’ yesterday, the more colorful name for feather-light deep-fried beignets, and was struck by how diverse the dough actually was. It got me thinking about the differences between how a chef and a home cook approach cooking. Chefs learn to multi-task many different preparations (mise en place) in order to be ready for service on any given day. Home cooks, while they may multi-task to get through their busy days, generally make one dish to feed their entire family. Most home cooks I have watched tend to make each dish from start to finish.

Being the chef taught me to group actions to cut down on time. For instance, having one person chop all the parsley for the entire kitchen rather than five cooks chopping their own. Or the pastry department making all the puff pastry dough even though a cook may need some for an appetizer. At home, this translates a bit differently. Maybe it is by making one preparation one night that can be slightly manipulated to make something different. By concentrating your efforts you will get more done in less time.

LEARN TO BE VERSATILE

Let’s examine the Choux paste, pâte à choux in French, that I used to make the ‘Nun’s Farts’. Choux paste can also make profiteroles, eclairs, gougeres, and even can be mixed with mashed potatoes to make pommes Dauphine or potato puffs.  It takes barely any more time to make a single batch as it does a double batch. Try making a fun dessert with half then mix the other half with potatoes. If you make a double batch of mashed potatoes one day you could make a simple shepherd’s pie the next. Versatility is the key.

Choux paste is a simple French dough that usually contains only four ingredients: milk/water, butter, flour, and eggs. The dough itself can easily be made in 5 to 10 minutes then baked or fried. It is interesting to note that the reason choux paste puffs is because of the high moisture content. As the dough cooks, steam is produced and the dough begins to puff. It stays puffed by baking the dough a bit longer until it starts to dry.

NUN’S FARTS AND 4 OTHER DELICIOUS USES

1. LES PETS DE SOEURS (THE FARTS OF NUNS).

These feather-light deep-fried beignets most likely got their nickname pets de nonne (literally “nun’s farts”) from a slight bastardization of the earlier term paix-de-nonne (“nun’s peace”). There are plenty of other theories, but being related to certain members of my French family that when given the proper dosage of pastis have a penchant for bending innocent words into far more vulgar ones at the drop of a hat. Give these delicious little puffs a try, despite the crude name they taste simply fantastic.

Click here to watch a short movie on how to make Nun’s Farts While you are there PLEASE subscribe to my YouTube channel

Nun's Farts (deep-fried Beignet)

Feather-light orange and run scented deep-fried beignets

Prep Time 10 minutes

Cook Time 10 minutes

Resting Time 5 minutes

Servings 8

Ingredients

• 1 cup whole milk

• 8 tbsp unsalted butter

• 1 pinch salt

• 1 tbsp granulated sugar

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 4 large eggs

• 1 tbsp dark rum

• 1 orange zested

• 2 quarts vegetable oil

• 1 cup granulated sugar for rolling cooked beignet in

Instructions

1. In a large stainless steel saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the milk, butter, salt, and sugar. Bring to a rapid boil, stirring to combine as the butter melts. Reduce the heat to medium and, using a wooden spoon, stir in the flour all at once. Cook, stirring constantly, until the dough dries out slightly, about 1 minute. This is important—excess moisture will cause your puffs to collapse. Remove the pan from the heat and let the dough cool for 5 minutes.

2. Stir in the eggs, one at a time, until fully incorporated before adding the next. You can mix in the eggs with a mixer, food processor, or a wooden spoon to get a workout. Stir in the rum and orange zest.

3. It is best if you can let the dough rest overnight, but if you are impatient as I am you can cook immediately. In a large, heavy saucepan, Dutch oven, or deep fryer, heat the oil to 350°F. Working in batches, drop tablespoons of dough into the hot oil and cook until golden brown, about 3 - 5 minutes. Remove the beignets using a wire skimmer and drain them on paper towels. Roll in granulated sugar and serve still warm.

2. GOUGÈRES

I have noticed a strong resurgence, in recent trips to France, of serving gougères at the beginning of a party to nibble on with a glass of wine. For the uninitiated, gougères are those billowy, addictively delicious baked cheese puffs made from pâte à choux. Gougères are the perfect vehicle for your culinary imagination. I love to eat them slightly warm or filled with a mixture of cream cheese and chives. Gougères freeze well and make an easy, elegant start to any meal.

Gougères

For the uninitiated, gougères are billowy, addictively delicious baked cheese puffs made from pâte à choux, the same dough used to make profiteroles, eclairs, cream puffs, and the showpiece dessert of every French wedding and Christmas celebration, croquembouche

Prep Time 10 minutes

Cook Time 40 minutes

Resting Time 5 minutes

Servings 36 Gougères

Ingredients

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter

• 1/2 cup water

• 1/2 cup milk

• 1/2 tsp sea salt

• 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 4 large eggs

• 1 cup shredded Gruyère cheese divided

• 1 large egg yolk

• 1 tbsp water

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line a rimmed baking sheet with a silicone baking mat or a buttered sheet of parchment paper.

2. In a large stainless steel saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the butter, water, milk, salt, and nutmeg. Bring to a rapid boil, stirring to combine as the butter melts. Reduce the heat to medium and, using a wooden spoon, stir in the flour all at once. Cook, stirring constantly, until the dough dries out slightly, about 1 minute. This is important—excess moisture will cause your puffs to collapse. Remove the pan from the heat and let the dough cool for 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the eggs, one at a time, until fully incorporated before adding the next. You can mix in the eggs with a mixer, food processor, or a wooden spoon to get a workout. Beat in all but 2 tablespoons of the Gruyère.

4. Place the dough in a pastry bag (see Tip below) fitted with a 1/2-inch plain tip and pipe golf ball-sized puffs onto the prepared baking sheet. In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and water. Brush the tops of the puffs lightly with the egg wash, sprinkle with the remaining Gruyère, and bake for 20 minutes. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F and continue baking until golden brown and dry, about 20 minutes. Cool on a wire rack. Eat warm or serve later. They will keep at room temperature for a few hours. Reheat in a 375°F oven for 5 minutes before serving.

Recipe Notes

Using an aluminum pot to cook the dough will discolor the dough. You can make your own pastry bag by cutting a 1/2-inch snip off one corner of a large zip-top bag.

3. POMMES DAUPHINE (FRENCH POTATO PUFFS)

Pommes Dauphine are crispy little potato puffs made by mixing mashed potatoes with choux puff then deep-frying. They go perfectly well with everything from steaks to roast chicken. Think of them as the best tater tot you will ever eat.

Pommes Dauphine (French Potato Puffs)

Crispy little potato puffs made by mixing mashed potatoes with choux puff then deep-frying.

Prep Time 15 minutes

Cook Time 1 hour

Servings 6

Ingredients

For the Mashed Potatoes

• 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes peeled

• 1 tbsp sea salt

For the Choux Pastry

• 1/2 cup unsalted butter

• 1/2 cup water

• 1/2 cup milk

• 1/2 tsp sea salt

• 1/8 tsp ground nutmeg

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 4 large eggs

• 2 quarts of vegetable oil for frying

Instructions

For the Mashed Potatoes

1. Bring potatoes and salt to a boil in a Dutch oven covered with 2 inches of water. Reduce heat to medium and continue cooking until soft, about 25 minutes. Drain potatoes then lay on a cookie sheet and dry out in a 400°F oven for 15 minutes. You could conversely bake the potatoes for 1 hour at 350°F, or until a paring knife easily pierces the potato.

2. Mash the potatoes using whatever method works for you. I like to use a food mill or a potato press.

For the Choux Pastry

1. In a large stainless steel saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the butter, water, milk, salt, and nutmeg. Bring to a rapid boil, stirring to combine as the butter melts. Reduce the heat to medium and, using a wooden spoon, stir in the flour all at once. Cook, stirring constantly, until the dough dries out slightly, about 1 minute. This is important—excess moisture will cause your puffs to collapse. Remove the pan from the heat and let the dough cool for 5 minutes.

2. Stir in the eggs, one at a time, until fully incorporated before adding the next. You can mix in the eggs with a mixer, food processor, or a wooden spoon to get a workout.

To Finish the Puffs

1. In a large stainless steel bowl mix the mashed potatoes and choux pastry. Let cool for s few hours or overnight. It is best if you can let the dough rest overnight, but if you are impatient as I am you can cook immediately. In a large, heavy saucepan, Dutch oven, or deep fryer, heat the oil to 350°F. Working in batches, drop tablespoons of dough into the hot oil and cook until golden brown, about 3 - 5 minutes. Remove the pommes Dauphine using a wire skimmer and drain on paper towels.

Recipe Notes

If you are patient and wait overnight the dough will be more solid and it will be easier to shape perfect 1 inch balls. Try adding different flavorings, shredded cheese, and even chopped green onions.

4. CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS

I remember vividly being a small child on a trip to Paris with my mother and sister, standing slack-jawed at the glass display cases of Stohrer, the oldest pâtisserie in the city. brimming with chocolate-glazed éclairs. Try making these delicious chocolate eclairs. Your family will love you for bringing a taste of France home. Eclairs are only slightly harder than making basic brownies. Only because there are 3 components to prep instead of simply 1. You will need a few tools like sil pats, pastry bags, and star tips to make this, but the results will be worth it.

Click here for my recipe.

5. PROFITEROLES AU CHOCOLAT (CREAM PUFFS FILLED WITH VANILLA ICE CREAM AND TOPPED WITH CHOCOLATE SAUCE)

Profiteroles are the perfect home dessert and are guaranteed to please everyone, from small children to adults. I remember watching with bated breath as my mother slowly poured the hot chocolate sauce over the ice cream-filled cream puffs. Try filling them with a variety of different ice cream flavors.

Chocolate Profiteroles

Cream puffs filled with Vanilla Ice Cream and topped with Chocolate Sauce

Prep Time 15 minutes

Cook Time 45 minutes

Total Time 1 hour

Author Francois

Ingredients

pâte à choux, choux paste

• 1 cup water

• 1 pinch sea salt

• 1 stick unsalted butter 4 oz

• 1 cup all-purpose flour

• 4 large eggs

• 1 large egg beaten for egg wash

chocolate sauce

• 2 cups water

• 1 cup heavy cream

• 9 ounces bittersweet chocolate

• 3/4 cup granulated sugar

other ingredients

• 1-quart vanilla ice cream or whatever flavor you like

• 1 jar goat milk caramel optional

Instructions

pâte à choux

1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Line a baking sheet with silpat or buttered parchment paper.

2. Place the water, sea salt, and butter in a stainless steel pot, and bring to a rapid boil. Watch out, using aluminum will discolor the final product. Using a wooden spoon, stir in all the flour at once, and keep stirring till well incorporated. Continue cooking till dough dries out slightly, about one minute longer. If you have too much excess moisture your puffs will collapse.

3. Let dough rest for 5 minutes to cool down a little bit. Add eggs 1 by 1, incorporating each one completely before adding the next. You can a stand mixer fitted with a paddle, food processor, or get a workout and do by hand.

4. Put the dough into a pastry bag fitted with a large, plain tip and pipe little golf ball-sized puffs. Brush lightly with egg wash, then bake for 20 minutes. Turn the oven down to 350°F, and continue baking for another 20 minutes, or until dry. 

chocolate sauce

1. Mix all the sauce ingredients together in a pot, then bring to a boil. Simmer for 5 minutes until it reduces down to sauce consistency, check by dipping a wooden spoon in then running your finger through - if it leaves a track then it is sauce consistency. Season with a pinch of sea salt for extra flavor.

final assembly of the dish

1. Cut profiteroles in half and fill the bottom half with a scoop of ice cream, then press the other half on top. Arrange them in a pyramid shape on a large serving platter. Drizzle with the warm chocolate sauce at the table and serve. Drizzle with caramel as well if you are using it.

Recipe Notes

This is a great dish to make with your child. The prospect of the finished product is usually enough to keep them engaged. Try giving them easy jobs like measuring and stirring to help your child feel part of the project.

Goat milk caramel or Cajeta is readily available in nicer grocery stores and farmers’ markets across the country. If you have access to fresh goat milk you can make it at home.

You can find premade profiteroles online and in some supermarkets. Keeping a box on hand will guarantee that you can make this dessert anytime you crave it. If you want to get ahead on prepping it, pre-scoop the ice cream and place it on a parchment paper-lined baking sheet in the freezer until needed.